April 23, 2018

Derailleur Lever TZ-20 Right 7-word Index With 2050mm Cable

lever derailleur t law row index cable mm Derailleur lever TZ 20 right 7 word index with 2050mm cable
Right saddle lever 7-row thumb-operated lever-index finger

Features:

– 7-row change in shifts

– The set includes a steel cable 2050mm

– Permanent, lightweight and reliable shifter with indexation

– Weight: 104 grams

– Color: black galaxy

Brand: Shimano

shimano Derailleur lever TZ 20 right 7 word index with 2050mm cable

SunRace MTB right friction shift lever

sunrace mtb right friction shift lever Derailleur lever TZ 20 right 7 word index with 2050mm cable

  1. The cheapy grip shifter was starting to stick so I got another one of these friction shifters to replace it.
  2. Any time a bike of mine needs a shifter I always replace it with a friction shifter.
  3. Friction shifters take all the headache out of trying to adjust a rear derailer properly.
  4. With the stupid grip shifters that rely on “index shifting” you have to fine tune the hi, low, and barrel screws on the rear derailer so that the grip shifter will make the derailer fall perfectly into place every time.
  5. This is a big pain in the ass to set up if you can even get it set up right on every gear.
  6. With friction shifters none of that fine tuning is really necessary.
  7. You simply move the thumb lever on the shifter until you hit the gear you want.
  8. I hope there will always be at least one or two companies out there that will have the sense to continue to manufacture friction shifters.
  9. I would definitely recommend this product and this seller to a friend.
  10. If you don’t have access to a digital camera, make some sketches of how the cable-wires are running and note exactly where their running from and to.
  11. The idea is to have a reference to return to, if anything gets strange.
  12. Now, carefully withdraw the cable-wires through their protective shrouds (black plastic sheathing) that run from the rear-derailleur.
  13. Now carefully disassemble the old shift-lever mechanism and remove the entire cable-wire.
  14. Try you best not to loose any parts when performing this cable-wire removal.
  15. Now, with the old cable-wire removed, you can either entirely remove the old shift-lever mechanism or leave it where it is.
  16. In many instances, removal of the old shift-lever will depend on whether that lever’s integrated into the hand brake levers.
  17. Unless you’re also replacing the brake levers, leave the reassembled shift-lever on the handle bars.
  18. You’ll have to decide how far you’ll want to go with this conversion.
  19. Finally, but most important is cleaning all mechanisms.
  20. If you’re looking for flawless performance, you’ll need to carefully clean the chain, chain-ring(s), rear-derailleur and rear gear cluster before actually installing the new shift lever.
  21. Use gloves and kerosene and spend an hour or two cleaning every bit of grim from these components.
  22. The kerosene works wonders cleaning most every part, but avoid prolonged exposure on your skin or rubber tires.
  23. It was like returning to my boyhood days in the hood, when we’d cobble together fixies from ratty bikes that were retrieved from the local garbage dump.
  24. After these parts are completely dry, use any-old spray-on lubricants to protect them.
  25. Thing to keep in mind is everything must be carefully cleaned and inspected before moving on to anything else!!!
  26. Before installing the new shift-lever, I carefully disassembled it and removed the indexing cam and spring.
  27. Carefully unscrew the chromed screw that runs down the center of the assembly and pull away the top black plastic cover.
  28. Put them aside and carefully reassemble the components.
  29. Use care when torquing the the screws on these shift-levers, as none of it’s high-quality and doubtless easy to strip.
  30. You really don’t need the tiny spring-loaded cam for anything but tactile/audio feedback.
  31. I’d just the same get accustomed to knowing where I’m at on rear derailleur from the lever’s actual position.
  32. I also took another reviewer’s tip and removed the clunky hard-rubber cover from the lever handle, itself.
  33. I’m thinking of using some black heat-shrink tubing for a sleeker cover.
  34. Now here’s a good tip: before final installation of the shift lever itself, reset the limit screws on the freshly cleaned rear-derailleur.
  35. This should help insure there’s less of a problem when you actually get around to the rear-derailleur’s stepping operation.
  36. So use caution when adjusting the rear-derailleur’s limit control screws!
  37. And if you’ve never done it, get the info on your model and don’t be afraid to learn how!!!
  38. Locate a good spot for the new shift-lever assembly on the handle bars, that’s also easily accessible by hand while riding.
  39. I know this sounds obvious but a little attention to detail can make all the difference in avoiding loss of control while steering, braking and shifting.
  40. Sit on the bike and meditate on your hand’s control of the shift-lever.
  41. I found the perfect spot next to the integrated brake levers; not far from where the old shift mechanism is.
  42. I carefully expanded the clamp and with equal care, locked it down on the handle bar.
  43. You may want to hold-off on fully tightening it down, until after you’ve had some road time with it.
  44. Until then, just leave it snugged up enough to hold position while test shifting.
  45. Remember, these babies aren’t the best of quality and can likely be stripped real easy!
  46. I did a series of gear steps from maximum to minimum sized range of the gear cluster, then carefully dialed-in the rear-derailleur limit screws.
  47. I couldn’t believe that with a little thinking, I could do away with the SIS shifter in one fell swoop!
  48. I took the bike out for a night ride and listened to the sound of harmonious shifting of drive chain and rear-derailleur.
  49. But I’ve finally accomplished flawless gear shifting with a “cheap” shift-lever, some elbow grease and common sense.
  50. Knowing from other reviews that these levers aren’t of the highest quality, I purchase two.
  51. Far from being the rich kid in town, I none-the-less wanted an extra on hand, in case one goes south on me.
  52. Now that I know this conversion can be done, I’m seriously think’n on saving-up some big bucks and going for the high-end thumbie / shifter combo.
  53. But we’re talk’n a hundred-fifty as opposed to ten bucks a pop!
  54. Until then, I’m going to enjoy one of the better deals of late: an inexpensive shift-lever that gets the job done!
  55. Seems to be nice and strong – the handle is metal all the way through with rubber over the metal, which is what I was hoping for.
  56. Good friction adjustment to work with any cable length, derailleur, etc.
  57. No constant adjustment needed, works with any setup, and are easy to install.
  58. Why the world ever went to indexed shifters I don’t know.
  59. I trashed my vintage Deore XT shifters and went with these on my Trek.
  60. Either you’ve read the gospel according to cheap, bulletproof bike components and you have one of these on your ride already, or you’re reading reviews because you suspect that there may be more out there in the world for you than the indexed grip shift your bike came home with.
  61. If it were to get stolen or scratched I’m not really out much, but it came with these rubbish grip-shifters.
  62. One fateful morning riding back from my local coffee shop, a shift to an easier gear caused the kludgy gripshift to explode.
  63. No matter, a simple friction shifter is better in every way.
  64. And it comes with the cables (no housings) but that makes this even a better value.
  65. The finish is a bit thin so I imagine that it will show wear fairly soon but I care more about the function so no biggy.

Buy SunRace MTB right friction shift lever here $7.05

Review Derailleur Lever TZ-20 Right 7-word Index With 2050mm Cable

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